Babbage

Science and technology

Technology and fashion

One size doesn't fit all

Feb 14th 2012, 15:16 by C.F. | BONN

BUYING clothes can be a maddening experience—even for a woman, and especially online. As many ladies will aver, different shops and fashion labels appear to have varying definitions of what a "size 6", say, is. Sure, clues sometimes lurk at the seams—or stashed away in the closet-equivalent of an online retailer's website. But they are not terribly user-friendly, nor is it easy to compare sizes across labels.

Fashion aficionados will therefore be thrilled to hear that Anna Powell-Smith, a London-based web developer, has just rolled out What Size Am I? Using the online app is a doddle. Simply adjust a set of sliders at the top of the screen to reflect bust, waist and hips (in metric or imperial units) and the software does the rest. It sorts through a selection of British and American labels to find the sizes in each which best match the buyer's vital statistics. 

Ms Powell-Smith's data make it plain that the size disparity really does exist. In one store, for instance, a size 16 was fully 10cm larger than a 16 at another. Intriguingly, she also found that lower-cost, mass-market labels, which she had expected to have a more generous sizing policy, in fact carry smaller sizes than high-end retailers, at least in Britain.

The app is part of a growing trend to create interactive data-visualisation, or dataviz, projects that allow users to interact with large data sets in novel ways. Media organisations often use such tools to get a better handle on everything from government budgets to public-transit schedules. This can be laborious. Ms Powell-Smith trawled each store’s website and compiled it into a spreadsheet.

It isn't just exasperated customers who will appreciate her effort. Mismatched sizes are a headache for online retailers, too. They complain about the huge volume of returned items: as high as 40% of all clothes sold over the internet, according to one German study.

Of course, some items are returned for reasons unrelated to size. Once the garment arrives a buyer may simply decide that, on reflection, it is not quite as becoming as had been hoped. A few European companies have ideas to prevent such surprises. One German start-up, UPCload, which officially launched this month, uses the customer's webcam to scan her (or his) body and creates an avatar which can then be dolled up and scrutinised. A similar firm in Estonia, called Fits.me, recently attracted over €1m ($1.3m) in venture capital. It offers online retailers a robotic torso that can be used to create virtual copies of the clothes they hold in stock.

For now Ms Powell-Smith's website caters only to the fairer sex. But she has got a number of e-mails asking her to include sizes for men (like Babbage) and children. The mismatches there, she noted, can be even more egregious than for ladies.

Readers' comments

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guest-ilmwjiw

SOme companies that sell men's custom size and fitted shirts simply use a few simple measurements from the customers as a solution.
I see this as a great tool, especially for the retailers, to avoid returns.
This technology has been a round for a while but is now becoming more user friendly and gets better everyday.

guest-ilmwjiw

SOme companies that sell men's custom size and fitted shirts simply use a few simple measurements from the customers as a solution.
I see this as a great tool, especially for the retailers, to avoid returns.
This technology has been a round for a while but is now becoming more user friendly and gets better everyday.

dr.reba

You know what else is interesting? Check out the range of available sizes in the high street stores - look at the range of the y-axis in the US compared to the UK stores. The UK high street stores carry a much wider range of sizes overall in the stores than do the US shops! By which I particularly mean at the larger end (where I am, as a classic small-waisted pear-shaped person). This is empirical evidence which confirms exactly what I have experienced, having lived both in the UK and in the US for long periods of time. The US high street stores only carry a range of sizes meant for skinnier people in store - larger women are relegated to only online shopping from many retailers because they don't carry the US 'size 16-18s or women's' sizes in the store. Which is insane because some of the largest variation in fit is when you get into the larger sizes and also the border area between 'misses' and 'women's' (sometimes I fit one, sometimes the other!) Whereas in the UK there were always relatively higher end and middling high street chains where I could walk in and buy stuff off the rack that fit. This is extra ironic given that the average weight of all people in the US is so much larger than the UK - there are way more larger sized women here, yet those women are relegated to in-store shopping only at Lane Bryant or Walmart/Target because the regular mall stores only carry sizes best suited for teens and college students!

jomiku

I'm afraid, CF, you've taken the easy answer as given. Yes, sizes differ. Yes, some of that is to make women feel better about their size and some reflects bigger people. But the main cause is elsewhere. It is that women's bodies have great variability: bust, hips, waist, leg length, even the location of the waist, all differ dramatically from woman to woman. Now combine that with women's fashion versus men's: men wear basic trousers and shirts that either billow or stretch. They wear suits which cover bellies. Women wear tighter clothes designed to emphasize body parts. These clothes are fitted to the woman's body, which means tremendous variabilty - and a large market for tailoring because the seat may fit but the legs won't or vice versa. That we think of regular women's sizes shows how little we understand about what we see every day. Women don't wear burkhas in the West so we should be able to tell their bodies vary a lot and their clothes options also vary much more than men. I can look around where I'm sitting: some guys in basic guy clothes of sweaters and pants and women wearing a wide variety of clothes. That's the real issue and the solution has never been to imagine there's a woman's size.

Connect The Dots

The Elephant in the Room is the Epidemic of Obesity, now claiming up to 50-60% of a Western Populace.
We ARE the Elephant in the Room.

Technology CAN provide a solution: Every waistband, bra or article of clothing should be made with Space-Age Spandex.

Spandex is the Zip-Up Polyester Jumpsuit of Today.

(And 'Exercise' is the new four letter word.)

Davenporter

How interesting that the companies are now feeling the pain from their "vanity sizing". Maybe they'll find a way to standardize, all in the name of cost reductions. The buying public, however will not be happy when that happens and they find that they've actually been one or two sizes larger than they thought.
I find now as sizes are ballooning that I am having to shift down in sizes (used to be XLarge, now mostly Large.) I don't think that I'm shrinking, but it sure looks like it in my closet.
I can't for the life of me understand how buying shoes online can work. Fit is maybe the top or second most important piece of buying shoes. But then again I'm a man.

ashbird in reply to Davenporter

I once spent 3 hours in a shoestore trying on walking shoes. Not one pair worked. I don't understand how buying online can work either. Now when I find shoes that are comfortable, I just buy two pair (black and another color) and be done with buying shoes for a long time.

guest-iwniwne in reply to Davenporter

I'll tell you how buying shoes online works. You simply have more choice online than in a shop. Especially unusual sizes (short but wide, in my case). So I usually get 10-20 pairs shipped, and keep 1 or 2. In local shops I wouldn't find any at all that fit, since they stick with the common sizes.

The Last Conformist

What I (a man) finds the most maddening about clothes sizing is that different manufacturers have wildly different ideas about the length of units like inches and centimetres. Two pair of jeans with the same nominal waist and inseam lengths can be wildly different sizes.

jouris in reply to The Last Conformist

I suspect that this is part of the reason that some of us cheerfully just stick with Levi's -- the measurements are consistent. Not only, in my experience, is what the label quotes (in inches) the same as what my tape measure reports. But since they went to pre-shrunk for most styles, there's not even a need to allow for shrinkage during the first few washings.

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In this blog, our correspondents report on the intersections between science, technology, culture and policy. The blog takes its name from Charles Babbage, a Victorian mathematician and engineer who designed a mechanical computer.

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